Every Bordoodle is a little different depending on the genetics of the parents! On average; F1s are wavy to wavy/curly (aka “Fleece coat”) F1bs are wavy/curly to curly (aka “Wool coat’) and F2bs are generally a step between the two. More curly than Fleece coat but less so than a Wool coat.
You can see what they look like as adults on our “All grown up” page.
Every person’s allergy and what triggers them is different. And every dog, even within the same litter, is different. Ultimately, you may not know for certain until the dog has been exposed to you or your family member for an extended amount of time. That being said; the SD, Cu & IC Locus genotypes tell us a lot about a dog’s coat as well as potential shedding. For $150 we can DNA test the puppy of interest for you as early as one day old! Results take 10-30 days to come back and testing costs are covered by you. We test through Pawprint Genetics Labratories. Testing price is non refundable regardless of results.
Generally, an F1b or F2b have the highest chance of being most suitable for families with allergies. Many of our dogs are happily living with non symptomatic dog allergy families!
The F1, F2 and other designations refer to the breeding and cross-breeding generations in dogs. See our section on About Bordoodles for the complete breakdown.
Once your application is approved, you may send a request to join our Facebook group called “Oregon Bordoodles family group.” There, you may post your location and ask if anyone nearby would like a play date! We have dogs all over the US & Canada!
Purchase Puppy Culture! The information, training, advice and more that Puppy Culture has to offer is incredible. Purchase their “Puppy Culture – The Film” set for $69.95 from their website. Follow along with us for the first 9 weeks while we raise your puppy and then continue our hard work by using the PC films for guidance. Their “When Pigs Fly” book is also incredibly helpful for continued training! Another favorite book I strongly recommend is called “Mine” and can be found HERE.
Breeding frequency and bitch age:
The key to understanding reproductive health in dogs is knowing that, as far as a bitch’s body knows, there is no difference between being pregnant and not being pregnant, after a heat cycle.
Those of us (humans, cows, horses, etc.) that cycle on a regular basis prepare our uterus to accept a fertilized egg or eggs every month or so. For a couple of weeks after ovulation we have a higher-than-normal progesterone level, which makes the uterus, which has grown a bunch of soft blood vessels and tissue, keep those vessels and tissue thick and strong so a fertilized egg can land on a lovely spot where there’s lots of blood to suck up and start growing its own little blood vessels.
For humans and other repeated cyclers, when there is no fertilized egg, the body gets the signal very quickly and the ovaries stop producing progesterone and the lining of the uterus breaks down and goes back to normal, at least for another few weeks until ovulation occurs again.
Dogs have a completely different system.
It starts out roughly the same, with the uterus preparing for the eggs by growing a good plush lining, and the eggs ripen on the ovaries and hooray, there’s some lutenizing hormone, and the eggs are released. It gets a little weirder from there, because unlike humans that have fertilizable eggs within a few hours of ovulation dogs’ eggs take two or three days. And unlike humans, whose eggs implant and begin to grow into the blood vessels about a week after ovulation, dogs take about three weeks. But the process is basically analogous.
Where dogs are VERY unlike us is that there is never any signal given to the body that there are in fact no fertilized eggs to nourish, that this has been an unsuccessful heat cycle.
Instead, a dog’s progesterone level stays high for the entire 63 days that she would have been pregnant; her uterus develops the incredibly effective and thick system of blood vessels that would be necessary to nourish an entire full-term litter.
You can honestly say that the only difference between a bitch who was bred and a bitch who was not bred is how many calories she’s burning–either she has to support a litter or she doesn’t–because her body honestly doesn’t know any difference. Aside from some relaxin to loosen her joints (which is present in pregnant dogs but not in non-pregnant ones after the heat cycle is over), the hormone levels are the same.
This would all be just a veterinary curiosity were it not for the fact that the body doesn’t like growing things and then not using them. When the uterus grows this tremendous blood supply, the blood supply actually shapes itself as though there are puppies there. The little attachment sites where the placentas would grow into the uterine lining are shaped differently and have different types of blood vessels. When there are no puppies to fill those shapes, the attachment sites form cysts. After multiple empty heat cycles, much of the uterus can be filled with fluid and cysts. In many bitches, that progresses to infection and pyometra.
The upshot of this whole situation is that bitches are not meant to have empty heat cycles. All else being equal, it is better and safer for them to be pregnant at each heat cycle (or spayed) than it is for them to remain unbred. And diet, panties, and other interventions (or lack thereof) are not the answer – the answer is to use the uterus or lose it.
Now of course not all things are equal. We all keep bitches unbred so we can finish them, or special them, or because it’s not a good time for a litter according to our schedule, or because we don’t have the time to screen puppy people, etc. We typically skip at least the first cycle if it came before the bitch was fully grown, so she can put all her calories into growing. I think that’s a perfectly reasonable trade-off to make, from a veterinary health perspective, though I am not sure it must happen; in production-based species like sheep and goats we know that breeding the young females before they are done growing is actually beneficial to them (when you look at lifelong production and health) and they catch up just fine. But I’m not comfortable looking at a bitch who’s still a puppy with puppies, and I would not want to risk a glitch in growth, so waiting until the bitch is fully adult is something I’d always advise.
I don’t think it’s necessary to wait a full two years, though, that became conventional wisdom because OFA gives you a final number at that age. But if you PennHIP or if you choose to rely on orthopedic opinion, or if you have a breed with virtually no dysplasia, there’s no reason to wait until the full two.
Skipping the first season, or the first couple, is certainly totally normal. Sometimes we have to skip more because of our needs or timing. But after full growth has been attained, she’s finished or shown as much as you plan to show her, health testing is done, and the bitch’s reproductive life is ready to begin, what is not supportable, from a health perspective, is INSISTING that bitches skip seasons; I’ve even heard people say that the “best” breeders skip two seasons between each litter.
This is purely us thinking of dogs like humans–we get tired and worn and unhealthy if we produce babies every nine to twelve months, so shouldn’t we give dogs at least a year–but it’s not the same thing! Humans are pregnant for nine months, and we are designed to lactate for another two years (minimum) after birth. If you put a pregnancy in the middle of that lactation you deplete yourself; you want to complete the full lactation (or the time the lactation would have lasted if you choose not to breast-feed) and then get pregnant again. This leads to babies two or three years apart, which is (if you look around at your family and friends) what usually happens anyway and is certainly not viewed as unusual or dangerous.
Bitches are pregnant for nine-ish weeks (though they are actually nourishing puppies for only six of those weeks), they lactate heavily for about four or five weeks after that, and then typically have at least two months before their next heat cycle. Unless her calories were so inadequate that she did not recover her normal body weight during those two months (and if she didn’t, I’d be looking seriously at how she’s being fed and cared for) there’s no reason she cannot have a normal and safe and uneventful pregnancy on the next heat. There is CERTAINLY no reason to rest her for two seasons; in fact, you’re making it a lot more likely that she will have reduced fertility or fecundity (number of healthy puppies) if you do.
Remember that as far as ANY bitch’s body is concerned, she IS having two litters a year. You don’t “do her a favor” by having one or both of them be invisible.
It is a common misconception that a dog with a merle coat must have hearing and seeing issues. The only time the merle gene causes a concern for health is when a dog is homozygous for merle, meaning “double merle.” The only way to get a homozygeous merle dog is to breed two merles together. This is something NO responsible breeder will ever do, including us!
A merle puppy out of Oregon Bordoodles has the same rare chance of being blind or deaf as any other puppy born with a normal genetic make-up. If you breed long enough, you are bound to have a statistical outcome of a puppy born with defects. I am blessed to say we have not yet had a single special needs puppy born here! I have many merle dogs now out in the world that were born here, into my hands. No owner has ever reported any heath concerns.
There are many, many well written research articles on the subject–but if you do a quick search to Wikipedia, at the top of page you will see it explaining the genetics further–and assuring the reader that only a homozygous dog is at risk and that a dog with a single merle gene has no greater risk than any other dog. 🙂 Proudly breeding healthy merles here at Oregon Bordoodles!
All of our dogs can be viewed on our boys and girls pages. We even feature our dogs that are still too young to breed as we have full transparency with our buyers. However, all of our dog except for Summit live in guardian homes because we love dogs and believe this is what is best for them. Read more on our Guardian Dogs page!
Approximately six. This is a number that changes based on many various factors. The MOST important thing for my puppies is that they receive individual care and attention and I vow to always stay within a limit where neither that or cleanliness is compromised. We do hire help, as needed. Each and every puppy born here is tended to and loved as a member of my family.
We do have an F1 Savannah cat that is quite confident with puppies and does a great job at cat desensitizing the puppies!
We love to meet our potential puppy families in person whenever possible! Keep in mind that most of our dogs live in Guardian Homes and that only Summit may be here for meeting. If you have a specific dog you’d like to meet, let me know so we can arrange it with the Guardian. Please also read our Visiting Oregon Bordoodles page!
Yes! For $2,000, your puppy will attend professional Board and Train training at Paw & Hand K9 with Merissa Micochero. She is a renowned training specializing in many fields and has trained dozens of our dogs/puppies!
Around 10-11 weeks of age is a good time to bring your puppy into the groomer for a short visit. Possibly a bath and brush-out, with no dryer. Or just a brush out, if your puppy is particularly weary. About 3 weeks later, do that again, but add 2-5 mins of blow-dryer time with lots of treats. Pick your puppy up soon, or even stay there for the visit. Slowly build up about every 3 weeks until your puppy can tolerate a full groom which includes bath, blow dry, nails, hair trim and brush out. Once puppy is confident with a full groom, you can move to every 6-8 weeks.
We have many puppies in Canada! Families have found it easiest to fly into Portland, OR and fly back with their puppy or drive over rather than having the puppy shipped, due to complicated customs and fees. We WILL ship a puppy to Canada but booking is the buyer’s responsibility. We will happily get the needed documents and drop the puppy off at the airport. Arranging a broker, etc is buyers responsibility.
Most of our Bordoodles go home to be a buddy to another dog and become quick friends!
Please see our Bordoodles packet!
Bordoodles are not recognized as an actual breed yet, and are still considered a “hybrid” therefor, they cannot be registered. However, each puppy has a pedigree that goes back at least four generations that can be provided to you! Our Bordoodles ALWAYS come from purebred, registered dogs.
Yes! Many of our puppies have been placed with working families and it is possible! I will teach you how to use an X-Pen system properly while you’re gone long hours. Potty training will likely take a little longer than if someone were home but it is absolutely do-able! We have designed a healthy and productive plan for working families with their new puppy.
At night, I strongly recommend crate training. During the day for naps or play, we do allow our puppies on our bed HOWEVER our dogs are always ONLY invited to join us on the bed. They are not allowed anytime they please. We use an “okay, bed” command. Then a “all done, off” command. Even through adulthood. Do not allow your dog to ever claim dominion over your bed.
Absolutely not. We use high quality Border Collies that are bred for a balanced energy level, not the Americanized neurotic Border Collie. Puppies are puppies and they have energy. A tired puppy, is a good puppy 🙂 Frequent walks and playing fetch are vital to a Bordoodles happiness and well being. However, they don’t need to be competing in aglity 3 times a week, going for a run everyday, etc. to be happy and balanced. Their energy level is suitable for an active family lifestyle. I would not consider it a good breed for a elderly couple spending their days in their comfy condo. They need regular activity.
Several, small car trips seems to eliminate this issue. Running for coffee? Grab the puppy! Running to return the movies? Grab the puppy! 🙂 He/She will grow out of it.
An Oregon Bordoodle puppy is $2,800. A deposit can be placed via Paypal or check once your application has been reviewed. Deposits are $300 and promise you a place in line to choose a puppy. Puppies are chosen in the order deposits are received. You will be offered a puppy from each litter born until your puppy has been chosen by you. Deposits are non-refundable.
Yes, we do! It’s typically between $350-$550. Please see our Shipping FAQ for more details.
Each pairing produces a different average weight. On my “Available Puppies” and “Upcoming Litters” I will write my expected approximate weight depending on the parents.
All of our F1 puppies will have some herding insinct. The amount tends to vary by puppy. You can redirect this working instinct with training, although none of our families have felt it was an issue so far. It is not nearly as intense as our purebred Border Collies.
When introduced to water properly, at a young age – absolutely !! Many of our puppies have grown up at the lakes and oceans around the US.
Poodles have a very deep bark designed to alert their families of an intruder. Our puppies tend to carry on this special trait. It is not difficult to train them to only bark when it is appropriate.
A handful of our puppies have been placed in homes with family members that are allergic to dogs, and they have not been allergic to their Bordoodle! They do shed hair, just as a person will lose hair strands while brushing or combing. However, they do not have an annual shed where they “blow coat” as a Border Collie does.
This is not a one size fits all answer. We expose our puppies to full body baths starting very young. We also do nail trims and anal glands. Most do quite well. Exposing your puppy to water often as a young adult is key to avoiding water fear. Do not overbathe your dog as that increases oils and makes for a dirty dog quickly. Once every 4-6 weeks, using a natural and gentle shampoo is plenty. Continue frequent nail and ear trims to keep your dog accustomed to them.
Please see our Dog Food page!
Unless your puppy was shipped and soiled in the crate, avoid a bath for about a week until your puppy feels safer with you.
Proper medical care is extremely important to us. We don’t use cheap Farm store medications but instead always use Veterinary supplies.
Puppies are dewormed with a gentle, liquid wormer for roundworm several times during their 8 weeks with us. Nearly all puppies are born with roundworm, regardless of proper care for the females before, during and after breeding. We also deworm for hook, whip and tapeworm as a precaution, a few days before sending a puppy home.
Our puppies are always flea and earmite free. We never use harsh flea shampoos or powders. If a puppy were to contact fleas (during a trip to the vet or from an outside visitor bringing them in by accident) we apply Revolution or Activyl topically. Our adults are treated year round to always keep a flea free home.
It has been scientifically proven that vaccinating a puppy before 8 weeks is not only unsafe, but is also not helpful. A puppy gets antibodies through mother’s milk and before 8 weeks, those antibodies will actually reject a vaccine. Because of this research, we do not vaccinate a puppy until it is 8 weeks. We vaccinate for canine distemper, adenovirus and parvovirus. Each puppy will go home with a medical form stating when he/she was born, was dewormed and what product was used, and vaccination details. There is also the information on what to do next, making it very easy for you! Exactly what is needed and when, to help start a plan between you and your veterinarian.
We send each of our puppies home with a custom collar! Once he/she outgrows that, we prefer martingale collars. Be sure to use a tag silencer, as the constant jingle of tags is uncomfortable on such sensitive ears!
Absolutely! Please see our Genetic Testing page.
Please see Crate and Confinement page
Paper towels and Nature’s Miracle cleaner is my absolute favorite as it takes away the urine enzymes, helping puppy to not return to the same place to potty.
Not local but want to add an Oregon Bordoodle to your family? We do ship! We are experienced at shipping puppies and have never had a bad experience doing so. The puppy always arrives safely and has generally slept through the flight. Puppy is shipped to an airport near you in a secure kennel with an absorbent mat and blanket, a toy, food/water dishes, food taped to the crate and their medical packet safely taped to the kennel under the absorbent mat. Shipping costs are generally $350 – $450 which cover flight, travel, crate, mat, dishes, health certificate, etc. Different airlines have different restrictions regarding temperatures and we do our best to find a schedule that works well for you and us with the puppy’s wellbeing being top priority.
We are always delighted to receive a photo an update when a family picks up their puppy at the airport!
Danielle, just wanted to let you know we just picked her up and she is doing wonderful! She had not even pottied in her crate, we were so surprised! She has gone potty and she gobbled up the canned food you told us to bring. We will watch her blood sugar as you suggested and keep you updated. Thank you, she is EVEN BETTER IN PERSON and full of kisses.
Cost to ship is generally $350 -$550. However, owners flying into Portland to pick up their puppy in person is always most ideal!
Feed your new puppy often during the first 48 hours of coming home, to help avoid hypoglycemia. After that, feed 3 meals a day until six months old. I do not recommend “free feeding” at such a young age because puppy will need to potty after eating so controlled feedings help potty training. Feed your puppy ALL he/she wants to eat (kibble) in a 15 minute setting, three times daily. Doing this has given my puppies wonderful eating control for adulthood and actually has developed dogs that don’t tend to overeat.